Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics

IMPACT OF TITANIUM DIOXIDE CONCENTRATION ON WHITECAST FORMATION IN DAY CREAM FORMULATION

Indah Puspita Sari, Rika Oktavia — Mon, 30 Jun 2025 00:00:00 +0000

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used in day cream formulations as a physical UV filter due to its broad-spectrum protection and stabilizing properties. However, its tendency to produce a visible whitecast on the skin presents a major aesthetic drawback, particularly for consumers with medium to dark skin tones. This study aimed to formulate three variants of day cream containing different concentrations of TiO₂ (6%, 3.3%, and 2%) and evaluate their visual characteristics, pH compatibility, and consumer-perceived whitecast intensity to determine the optimal balance between UV protection and cosmetic elegance. All formulations were prepared following a standardized emulsification protocol using identical excipient compositions, with TiO₂ concentration as the only variable. Organoleptic and pH evaluations were conducted, followed by a sensory assessment involving 20 respondents who evaluated whitecast visibility and overall preference using structured questionnaires. All formulations demonstrated desirable visual and organoleptic characteristics, including homogeneous white color, soft mango fragrance, and smooth texture with a pH within the ideal physiological range (4.5–5.5). Sensory evaluation revealed that higher TiO₂ concentrations led to more pronounced whitecast. Formulation F3 (2% TiO₂) was most preferred by 75% of respondents for its minimal whitecast and natural finish. The results indicate a direct correlation between TiO₂ concentration and whitecast intensity. While higher TiO₂ concentrations improve opacity and UV protection, they compromise cosmetic acceptability. Formulation with 2% TiO₂ offers an optimal balance for daily cosmetic use, supporting the development of aesthetically pleasing and functionally protective skincare products.

EFFECT OF VARIOUS CONCENTRATION ON PHYSICAL PARAMETER OF FEMININE HYGIENE SWEET BASIL LEAF EXTRACT (Ocimum Basilicum) : FOAM STABILITY AND HEIGHT EVALUATION STUDIES

Arsy Fauziah — Tue, 01 Jul 2025 01:50:22 +0000

Sweet basil or Kemangi (Ocimum basilycum) is known not only for its distinct aroma or flavor but also its therapeutic potential. Due to phytochemical ingredients, sweet basil become promising material for cosmetics and personal care industries such as feminime hygiene. This study aims to investigate the effect of varying concentration on foam stability from sweet basil leaf extract feminine hygiene. The extract was formulated into feminime hygiene with varying concentrations from 20%, 25%, 30%, 35% and 40%. Each formulas were evaluated on height evaluations and foam stability, analyze with Kruskal-Wallis test and Mann-Whitney test, respectively. The results was statistically significant for each parameters between formula I (20%) and formula III (30%).

THE POTENTIAL OF FRAGRANT PANDAN LEAVES AS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS: PHYTOCHEMICAL ANALYSIS

Siwi Nurbaiti, Sinta Bella Triyanti, Herayati Herayati — Tue, 01 Jul 2025 01:52:31 +0000

This study aimed to evaluate the phytochemical composition of Pandanus amaryllifolius (fragrant pandan) leaf extract as a preliminary assessment of its potential application in herbal cosmetic formulations. The extraction was performed using the maceration method with 95% ethanol as the solvent. Qualitative phytochemical screening was conducted to identify major classes of secondary metabolites. The results confirmed the presence of alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, polyphenols, and saponins, while steroids and triterpenoids were not detected. Each identified compound group is known to contribute important biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects, which are desirable in topical skincare products. These findings provide foundational evidence that P. amaryllifolius leaves are a promising natural source of multifunctional bioactive compounds for future cosmeceutical development.

TERATOGENIC RISKS OF COSMETIC INGREDIENTS DURING PREGNANCY: REVIEW

Tue, 01 Jul 2025 01:55:33 +0000

Cosmetics are one of the necessities, especially for women to maintain healthy skin and appearance to become more confident. Cosmetics are products that are widely applied to the body, especially the skin, and their compositions come into contact with the skin for many years with the user. Therefore, the ingredients used in cosmetics must be safe and have concentrations that can be tolerated by the body, so as not to cause ongoing harmful effects. According to European law, all cosmetics approved for circulation in the European Union must be safe for users, and the responsibility for this lies with manufacturers, distributors, and importers. However, the use of cosmetics can have undesirable effects due to the presence of certain chemicals. often, these chemicals have harmful and long-lasting effects, especially for pregnant women as they can affect foetal growth and development. There are cosmetic ingredients that have been shown to be teratogenic and potentially harmful during and after pregnancy. This review explores the various teratogenic substances, their impact on pregnancy, and how to prevent the use of teratogenic cosmetic ingredients. It is acknowledged that exposure to mercury during pregnancy and childhood poses a serious risk to public health. To effectively guide future cosmetic recommendations, more studies especially examining mercury, hydroquinone, retinoic acid from cosmetics are necessary.

Key words: Cosmetics, Hydroquinone, Mercury, Retinoic acid, Teratogenic.

FORMULATION AND STABILITY EVALUATION OF NATURAL SHOWER GEL CONTAINING PIPER BETLE HYDROSOL AND WHITETEN™

Elianasari Elianasari, Dina Putri Agustina — Mon, 30 Jun 2025 00:00:00 +0000

The growing interest in natural-based personal care products has encouraged the development of innovative cosmetic formulations, including shower gels. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the physical stability of a shower gel containing Piper betle L. leaf hydrosol and WhiteTen™, a botanical-derived brightening complex. The product was prepared through a four-phase process using ingredients such as Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Menthol, and preservatives, with the pH adjusted to 5.5–6.5. The formulation was evaluated for its organoleptic properties, pH, viscosity, spreadability, rinseability, foam height, and stability under accelerated storage conditions using six temperature cycling periods. The results showed that the shower gel demonstrated stable physical characteristics, including suitable viscosity, good foaming capacity (60 - 80 mm), ease of rinsing (10 seconds), and consistent pH values across different storage temperatures. The incorporation of WhiteTen™ contributed to the product’s brightening potential, enhancing its value as a multifunctional cosmetic. No significant changes were observed in physical appearance or performance after stability testing, indicating that the formulation is stable and suitable for further development as a safe, natural, and functional skincare product.

BALANCING FEAR APPEALS AND SCIENTIFIC STORYTELLING ON INSTAGRAM

Suryaneta Suryaneta, Wafiq Azizah Muhtar, Tri Noviantoro — Tue, 01 Jul 2025 02:38:34 +0000

This study examines how an Indonesian organic-skincare SME integrates science-based storytelling, calibrated fear appeals, and micro-influencer collaboration on Instagram to build brand engagement and consumer trust. It addresses the research gap on balancing educational and threat-based messaging in emerging Muslim-majority markets. A 16-week single-case study combined (i) five semi-structured interviews, (ii) document analysis of a four-month content calendar (71 posts), and (iii) post-level Instagram analytics. Thematic coding (κ = 0.82) was integrated with non-parametric tests (Mann–Whitney) in a mixed-methods joint display. Scientific storytelling embedded in a five-stage content workflow lifted saves-to-view ratios and underpinned a 70 % repeat-purchase rate. Fear-appeal posts generated 1.2× more comments but provoked backlash unless paired with coping advice, supporting the Extended Parallel Process Model. Posts co-created with niche influencers achieved six-fold higher views (3,189 vs 524) and engagement rates (2.46 % vs 0.41 %) than stand-alone brand content. Resource-constrained beauty brands should (i) codify a science-first scripting routine, (ii) sequence “threat-then-solution” messages, and (iii) prioritize credibility-matched micro-influencers over costly macro endorsements. This study is the first to integrate live social-media analytics, internal workflow documents, and stakeholder interviews to test how scientific storytelling and fear appeals interact under influencer mediation in an emerging-market cosmetics context, extending content-marketing and fear-appeal theory.

INESIA LOTION INSTABILITY: EFFECTS OF OPACIFIER AND THICKENER CONCENTRATION AND REFORMULATION

veni putri nurhayati, Indah Puspita Sari — Tue, 01 Jul 2025 05:25:20 +0000

This study aims to analyze the effect of opacifier (Titanium Dioxide) and thickener (Carbomer) concentrations on phase instability in Inesia Hand and Body Lotion Midsummer products, and to formulate reformulation solutions to improve their stability. Initial observations on the commercial product (Formula F1) showed severe phase instability, characterized by two-layer separation after 27 hot-cold cycle tests. To address this, three experimental formulas (F3, F4, F5) were designed by varying the concentrations of Carbomer and Titanium Dioxide, using F1 as an unstable control and F2 as a stable control. Accelerated stability test results over 27 cycles showed that Carbomer concentration was the dominant factor in determining emulsion stability. Formulas F1 and F4, with low Carbomer concentrations (0.12% and 0.14%), experienced significant instability (total separation in F1, slight creaming in F4) exacerbated by higher Titanium Dioxide concentrations. In contrast, Formula F5 (1,20% Carbomer, 0.09% TiO2) showed emulsion stability, maintaining perfect homogeneity for 26 cycles. Interestingly, Formula F3 (0.16% Carbomer, 0.10% TiO2) also proved to be very stable and equivalent to F2, indicating an effective threshold for optimal stability. Organoleptic evaluation supported the physical stability findings. Increasing Carbomer concentration proved to be an effective reformulation strategy in overcoming phase instability in Inesia body lotion. This research provides a scientific basis for the development of more stable cosmetic products.