Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics

Comparison of Extraction Methods for Green Betel Leaf (Piper betle L.) Based on Stock Solution Concentration

Herayati Herayati — 2026-06-30

Green betel leaf (Piper betle L.) is a medicinal plant widely recognized for its bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins, saponins, and essential oils, which exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities. The extraction method plays a crucial role in determining the efficiency of bioactive compound recovery from plant materials. This study aimed to compare several extraction methods for green betel leaf based on the concentration of the resulting stock solution as an indicator of extraction efficiency. Fresh green betel leaves were processed into dried simplicia and extracted using five different methods: maceration, partition and fractionation, digestion, ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE), and Soxhlet extraction. Methanol, n-hexane, and distilled water were used as extraction solvents according to the characteristics of each method. The concentration of each stock solution was calculated from the dry extract residue obtained after solvent evaporation. The results showed that UAE produced the highest stock solution concentration (2.4% w/v), followed by Soxhlet extraction (0.8% w/v), digestion (0.04% w/v), maceration (0.01% w/v), and partition and fractionation (0.0003% w/v). The superior performance of UAE was attributed to acoustic cavitation, which enhanced mass transfer while minimizing thermal degradation of heat-sensitive bioactive compounds. These findings demonstrate that UAE is the most effective extraction technique among the evaluated methods for obtaining bioactive compounds from green betel leaves and has considerable potential for developing natural cosmetic ingredients.

Physical Stability Evaluation of an Anti-Aging Night Cream Based on Snail Mucin and Niacinamide

Elianasari Elianasari — 2026-06-30

Skin aging is associated with impaired barrier function, reduced hydration, and degradation of collagen and elastin, which may be accelerated by environmental exposure. Snail secretion filtrate, commonly known as snail mucin, and niacinamide are cosmetic active ingredients with potential roles in supporting hydration, skin regeneration, barrier repair, and the management of visible signs of skin aging. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the preliminary physical stability of an anti-aging night cream based on snail mucin and niacinamide. The formulation was prepared as an oil-in-water emulsion containing 3.3% snail secretion filtrate and 2.4% niacinamide. Physical evaluations included organoleptic observation, homogeneity, pH, initial viscosity, emulsion type, spreadability, and a cycling test at 4°C and 40°C. The results showed that the cream was white in color, had a melon fragrance with a slight base odor, exhibited a semisolid texture, was homogeneous, and was classified as an oil-in-water emulsion. The pH increased from 6.21 to 6.47 after the cycling test, while spreadability decreased from 6.95 cm to 6.45 cm; however, both values remained within acceptable ranges for topical preparations. The initial viscosity indicated semisolid characteristics, with values ranging from 7040 to 1935 mPa·s at rotational speeds of 6–30 rpm. No phase separation or significant organoleptic changes were observed after testing. The snail mucin–niacinamide night cream formulation demonstrated good preliminary physical stability; however, further studies on long-term stability, safety, and skin efficacy are required.

A Mirror of Time: Historical Traces and Cultural Changes in Defining Ideal Beauty

Anik Maghfiroh — 2026-06-30

ABSTRACT

Artikel ini menelusuri perjalanan sejarah serta perubahan budaya yang membentuk konsep “kecantikan ideal” dari berbagai periode waktu. Melalui metode studi literatur dengan pendekatan deskriptif-kualitatif, penelitian ini mengungkap bahwa standar kecantikan tidak pernah bersifat statis, melainkan selalu mengalami transformasi seiring dinamika sosial, ekonomi, politik, serta perkembangan teknologi dan media. Setiap era menunjukkan konstruksi estetika yang berbeda, mulai dari kecantikan yang diasosiasikan dengan status sosial pada masa-masa awal, hingga nilai-nilai budaya dominan yang memengaruhi preferensi fisik dan gaya hidup masyarakat.

Perubahan tersebut semakin kompleks ketika globalisasi dan arus informasi memperluas interaksi antarbudaya. Media massa, industri hiburan, hingga platform digital modern berperan besar dalam menyebarkan, memperkuat, bahkan menantang standar kecantikan yang berlaku. Representasi visual yang terus-menerus dikonsumsi publik membentuk persepsi bersama tentang apa yang dianggap menarik, meskipun sering kali tidak lepas dari bias estetika tertentu. Namun, perkembangan media sosial juga membuka ruang bagi munculnya gerakan counter-narrative yang menekankan keberagaman, penerimaan diri, dan inklusivitas.

Temuan penelitian ini memperlihatkan bahwa kecantikan merupakan konstruksi sosial yang terus dinegosiasikan, dipengaruhi oleh konteks zaman serta relasi kekuasaan yang bekerja dalam masyarakat. Dengan memahami jejak evolusi konsep kecantikan, kita dapat mengembangkan perspektif yang lebih kritis dan sensitif terhadap keberagaman penampilan. Hal ini penting untuk membangun pemahaman estetika yang lebih humanis dan tidak terbatas pada satu definisi tunggal, sehingga masyarakat modern dapat lebih menghargai berbagai bentuk ekspresi kecantikan yang otentik.

Kata Kunci: kecantikan ideal, sejarah kecantikan, budaya, konstruksi sosial, perubahan estetika.

ABSTRACT

This article traces the historical journey and cultural shifts that have shaped the concept of the “ideal beauty” across different periods of time. Through a literature study using a descriptive qualitative approach, this research reveals that beauty standards are never static; instead, they continuously transform in line with social, economic, and political dynamics, as well as technological and media developments. Each era presents a distinct aesthetic construct, ranging from beauty associated with social status in earlier periods to dominant cultural values that influence physical preferences and lifestyle choices in society.

These changes become even more complex as globalization and the flow of information expand intercultural interactions. Mass media, the entertainment industry, and modern digital platforms play significant roles in disseminating, reinforcing, and even challenging prevailing beauty standards. The constant stream of visual representations consumed by the public shapes collective perceptions of what is considered attractive, although such portrayals often remain intertwined with certain aesthetic biases. However, the rise of social media has also opened space for counter-narratives that emphasize diversity, self-acceptance, and inclusivity.

The findings of this research illustrate that beauty is a social construct that is continuously negotiated, influenced by the context of the era and the power relations operating within society. By understanding the evolutionary trajectory of beauty concepts, we can develop a more critical and sensitive perspective toward the diversity of appearances. This is essential for cultivating a more humanistic understanding of aesthetics one that is not confined to a single definition—allowing modern society to appreciate a wider range of authentic expressions of beauty.

Keywords: ideal beauty, beauty history, culture, social construction, aesthetic changes.

Formulation and Evaluation of a Guava Leaf (Psidium guajava L.) Extract-Based Soap Bar as a Cleanser

Herayati Herayati — 2026-06-30

The cosmetic industry is rapidly developing, with a focus on safer and environmentally friendly formulations. Soap bars, which are widely used as skin-cleansing products, are increasingly being innovatively formulated using natural ingredients that provide additional benefits for the skin. Guava leaves (Psidium guajava L.), which contain flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic compounds, exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, making them promising ingredients for cosmetic formulations. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate a guava leaf extract-based soap bar as a skin cleanser with antioxidant properties. An experimental method was employed to develop soap bars containing guava leaf extract through the saponification of virgin coconut oil (VCO), stearic acid, glycerin, and sodium hydroxide (NaOH), combined with guava leaf extract. The evaluations included physical appearance, pH, foam stability, and antioxidant activity using the DPPH assay. The resulting soap bars exhibited stable physical characteristics, an appropriate pH range (6–7), good foam stability, and significant antioxidant activity, with a DPPH inhibition percentage exceeding 70%. These findings suggest that guava leaf extract-based soap bars not only function effectively as cleansers but also provide additional protection against oxidative stress, supporting their potential as natural and functional skincare products.

Formulation, Physicochemical Characterization, and Stability Assessment of a Moringa oleifera Leaf Extract Serum Gel

Agitha Casanova Capah — 2026-06-30

Moringa oleifera leaves have attracted considerable interest as a natural source of bioactive compounds for cosmetic applications because of their antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a gel serum containing M. oleifera leaf extract as a natural skincare formulation with desirable physicochemical properties and storage stability. The leaves were extracted by maceration using 96% ethanol, and the resulting extract was subjected to qualitative phytochemical screening before incorporation into a gel serum formulation containing glycerin, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. The formulated gel serum was evaluated for its organoleptic characteristics, homogeneity, pH, viscosity, and physical stability under storage at 25°C and 40°C for one month. Phytochemical screening confirmed the presence of flavonoids, steroids, tannins, and saponins, whereas alkaloids were not detected. The developed gel serum exhibited a homogeneous appearance, a skin-compatible pH of 5.35, and viscosities of 420 and 303 mPa·s at 30 and 60 rpm, respectively, while maintaining good physical stability under both storage conditions. These findings suggest that M. oleifera leaf extract is a promising natural bioactive ingredient for stable and multifunctional serum formulations and warrants further investigation regarding long-term stability, skin compatibility, and clinical efficacy.